If you are looking to score some summer waves in Alaska Kodiak and Yakutat are two well known spots to consider visiting.
In the archives you can find a four part report from a surf trip to Yakutat. Part One, Two, Three, Four. Now it’s Kodiak’s turn. Having been a few years since I’ve surfed Kodiak myself, I reached out for this post to a Surf Alaska follower Caroline Goodman. She was kind enough to share her story and answer a few questions on the surf scene in Kodiak. If you enjoy the interview thank her in the comments, she’s done us all a great favor here.
SURF ALASKA: Please introduce yourself – Where you learned to surf, where you have surfed mostly, where else in Alaska have you surfed, long board or short, whats too big, what’s too small.
CAROLINE: I started surfing at the age of 28. We moved to Oahu 4 years ago [from Alaska I believe], my husband is in the Coast Guard so we were lucky enough to be stationed there. I’ve always wanted to learn how to surf and wasted no time. The three of us took surf lessons from the beach boys next to Dukes at Waikiki. I’ve been addicted ever since. Pretty much surfed every day since then until we moved here to Kodiak. Surfed most of the surf breaks of Oahu. I consider the eastside, Kailua town my homebreak. It breaks like the North shore, especially in the winter. There is always waves there. Its a different story here on Kodiak. I was pretty nervous about surfing here in Alaska. I knew that I had to get in the water right away to convince myself my life wasn’t over as a surfer. So I rented a longboard from the local surf shop and drove out of town to surf 3 mile. It was a gloomy misty kinda of day but the water was super glassy and the waves were about waist high. I had the whole place to myself! Something I’m not used too coming from Hawaii. I put on my wetsuit totally unsure of the whole thing. Then it was go time. Paddled out and caught my first wave. I was super stoked….stoked there were waves, stoked to have a break all to myself, stoked that it was beautiful and stoked that I was warm. Maybe a little too warm, I had to pull off my hoody!
I am a longboarder at heart. I like 9 ft high performance longboards, the kind you can shred or just cruise and hang 5. I’m still working on hanging 10. I surf everything from ankle biters to double over head. Caught my two biggest waves at Makaha and a secret place on the eastside of Oahu. Those waves were in the 15ft to 16ft face value. I’ve only lived here on Kodiak for a couple of weeks and so far the biggest waves I’ve had were head high.
SURF ALASKA: How consistent is Kodiak? How many days a week on average can you expect to surf?
CAROLINE: Kodiak is pretty consistent. You could probably surf everyday if you really wanted too. It’s pretty small though. One weekend we had some over head waves. That lasted for a couple of days but I think it’s mostly waist to shoulder high when the waves are good. I mostly surf on the weekends because I like a little company. I know that sounds crazy, but I’m kind of scared of the local marine life…mainly the sea lions. So far they’ve just been a little curious. But still, they’re huge!! And they like to surf too. Won’t catch me droppin on one of those locals 🙂
SURF ALASKA: How do we get to the waves, or are they local secret spots?
CAROLINE: In the summer the waves are out the road. That’s what the locals call driving out to Pasagshak. I only know of two surf spots. The first one you’ll see is called Surfers Beach or 3 mile. Its a 45 minute drive out to a little fishing village called Pasagshak. Past Pasagshak you come to the first beach accessible by road. It’s three miles of sandy beach and fun on waist high to a little overhead size waves. When we get a good sized swell it kinda closes out. There isn’t a channel when it’s over head so it’s kinda hard to get out to the front line when you’re paddling a longboard. I think it would be fun on a shortboard. It gets pretty hollow when it’s big. When the waves start to close out the locals go to a place called Fossil Beach. It’s just down the road. There’s two spots you can surf. On the left side of the beach is one called Lefts and it’s kinda like a point break. On the right is a fun spot where you can surf the sandy shore break. Fossil beach can handle the bigger swells. The big rocks and beds of seaweed help shape better waves.
In the winter the waves are in town. The most well known spot is Mill Bay. I haven’t surfed it yet but I hear it gets pretty juicy in the winter. You can see clips of the locals shredding it on youtube.
SURF ALASKA: Are the locals friendly to visiting surfers in general?
CAROLINE: The locals are pretty friendly. But new people totally stick out around here. I met a trio of locals that pretty much surf everyday. They were helpful with answering my questions and hooked me up when I was all bummed out when I couldn’t handle the 9 ft shore break at 3 mile. They told me about fossil beach! I was so stoked! The other group of surfers I see all the time on the weekends is a small surfing family. True Alaskan family. Dads surfing, moms hanging out on the beach next to the campfire and chasing their giggling naked babies. I think if you want to get to know the local surfers it helps to bring a six pack of good beer. There’s a local microbrewery here that they seem to enjoy 🙂
SURF ALASKA: What’s a crowded day in Kodiak look like? how many in the water? The vibe?
CAROLINE: The biggest crowd we’ve seen so far was about 10 people in the water. Besides the usuals it’s mostly biggners I think. Surfing has kinda taken off here on Kodiak. Every time I’m driving on the road I see at least one vehicle with a board or two on the racks. There’s folks here that have been surfing this island for 20 years.
SURF ALASKA: For the summer, what thickness of suit are you happy in?
CAROLINE: The only wetsuit I have right now is a 6/5/4 mm. I wanted a pretty thick wetsuit since I’m not used to surfing in cold water. But honestly I think I could go lighter. The water temp is usually around 48 to 50 degrees. I get pretty hot in my wetsuit. I like to wear a bathing suit underneath it and sometimes its dry, but if it isn’t, it’s because I was sweating.
SURF ALASKA: Any tips for visiting surfers? Such as who to contact, where to stay, things to bring for making quick friends with the locals . . .?
CAROLINE: Visiting surfers should definitely check out our local surf/scuba shop. Its called Scuba Do and they have a website. They have all the info you need to know about surf and weather conditions. Sandy, the owner, has been super helpful with surf gear and where to go. You can rent what ever you need from a wetsuit to what ever size board you like to ride.
SURF ALASKA: How does surfing Kodiak compare with Hawaii?
CAROLINE: Hawaii and Alaska are equal in beauty. I like to refer to Kodiak as Hawaii’s 9th island. I’m just stoked there’s surf and surf for all levels. There isn’t as much surf here in Kodiak as there is in Hawaii but at least there’s surf. I’m used to perfect peeling reef breaks. Here it’s a bit different. What I’ve surfed so far has been fast shorebreak because of the sandy bottom. The huge boulders and kelp beds kinda act like a reef break but it’s different. I feel like I’m a biggner again. Surfing with a wetsuit in cold water is very challenging. It’s very new and that makes me timid. In Hawaii I’d just roll out of bed and roll into the water with my board. You have to prepare when you want to surf in Alaska. You really gotta check the weather and tides because its a long drive out and you don’t want to be let down if the surf isn’t good. Then you got to get all your gear together, pack water, extra clothes, fishing poles, stuff to make a fire and goodies to eat…it’s usually an all day affair. Alaska and Alaska surf isn’t for everyone. If you like empty line ups, wide open spaces, pristine water, spectacular mountains, salmon, berries, abundance of wildlife, zero traffic and don’t mind the cold…you’ll love it!
SURF ALASKA: Let me be the first to thank you for taking the time to tell your story of surfing in Alaska and share some information for us all!
If any of you other readers catching waves in Alaska would be willing to share in this way please contact me. I’d love to get more interviews like this on the site.
Thank you Caroline, that was great info for me (my family just moved to Alaska from Hawaii). One comment, Hawaii has zero secret spots, haha. thanks again.
Awesome Travis! If you and your family are ever in Kodiak you should look me up. I’m always looking for a surfer buddies and I have plenty of boards!
Been there at Kodiak last year, and that place was really whoa!!! AWEEEESOME!!!!!
Thanks for sharing your stoke Caroline – and thanks for organizing the site once again Surf Alaska. Stories like this help us all stay in touch with our inner grom!
P-shak rocks. I camped out there for a couple weeks back in 2006, surfing and deer hunting. Got waves ranging from waist-high peelers to 10 ft bombs. Met some of the local crew around the beach fire too. Good times!
I surfed in P-shack for the second time last may. First time I ever surfed with seals, sea lions and a young gray whale between us and the beach. Those sea lions are the most aggressive I have seen any where. The adolescents are curious, but will stay away if you group up and yell at them. P-shack is great place to surf. The sand bars seem to change year to year so time spent walking the beach if you haven’t been there in a while is helpful to see where the waves are best. Would love to see the surf in the winter there. Kodiak rocks!
Thanks,
Yes thanks Caroline and Scott D, and some of the locals who for some reason have to take a picture and put it on the web. I’ve been surfing Kodiak 13 years ,and actually discovered and named spots through lots of hard work and some trial and error. For 12 of those years the spots have stayed secret but now when I fly over for a swell the breaks are loaded with kooks. Either from Homer or locals who should not be out. Thats not the problem though, Its your home,and I’m sorry if I seem jaded,but I recently discovered the road out to breaks behind the Ranch have been gated. Could this be because stupid people have left shit all over. I’ve surfed it alone or with 2 people max for 12 years with no problems,and just recently this happens.Guys police your shit and quit posting pics. I know it want ever be crowded with out of staters,but Homer will invade,and next will be Anchorage. Trust me I live there and I’ve been questioned on Kodiak details for years,but I kept my mouth shut. SO SHOULD YOU!
You were never the first and shall not be the last. You’re the first agro surfer i’ve ever met who claims surf on Kodiak. They write articles on people like you and they are often titled the ugly surfer. Sorry you’re so miserable about the whole thing. Where there is a wave there will be a surfer. Why would you deny some one the bliss of surfing? Is mother ocean all for you? Come on, get over yourself…watch out for all that negative energy you put out into the universe. Mother ocean can give and she can take away too. Aloha, C
ps. it’s always funny how its always the visitors that are agro. passed your message on to all the kooks. they are all super excited to meet ya. don’t forget to introduce yourself next time your on island 😉
Thanks.
Caroline,
First and foremost, Pura Vida!!! You shred and your stoke is contagious!!!
Scott, I’ve been surfing way to long to have you or anybody else tell me I shouldn’t be in the lineup. Come out into the breakers and learn to share!!! Come on, your spot is Pasagshack? Go look at the map in the ferry terminal. It is labeled “Surfers Beach”. It is not a secret!!! Besides, it is a big beach with enough breaks to go around… But, if you can’t stand being able to see anyone, Go find one of your 13yrs. of experience super secret squirrel spots to ride.
Bitching about the ranch? First off, talk to the rancher and get your story straight. If anything, you should be happy because that extra ten minutes of walking to check out the break really does cut down on the crowd. And yes, Caroline said nothing about the ranch but you did… It really does suck that it is going to be like La Jolla and Trestles, Invaded by people from Homer and Anchorage. This is all because of you, Scott.
Come on, leaving shit behind. I’ve removed more shit from the beach and disposed of it properly than I would like to admit. Thanks to fellow kook Caroline and kook Nate, They even organized a community garbage clean up day for our beaches. Your arrogance is astounding!!!
You’ve discovered and named breaks. So have a lot of others, including myself. If you are worried, please let me know what the names are, I will make sure to call them something else. Then maybe you’re breaks will be forgotten.
To be selfish of such an abundant resource is absurd. Why not promote the quality of each others life! Is surfing such a burden to you that you don’t want anyone else to experience it? God forbid some surfer with a stoke actually promotes the sport and motivates someone to get off their ass, step away from the T.V., put down the French fries and possibly enjoy what I’ve found to be one of the best experiences of my life.
Just to set the record straight…
BREAKS I KNOW ON KODIAK, AK. All 46 of them!!!
River mouth, high grounds, first beach, 2 trees, bear paw, cannon balls, fossil, the left, log jam, Ryan’s hole, 3 pile, boat launch, constipations, Super spook, hotels, waterfalls, aukbar, 2 rocks, Rico’s beach, acid drops, roads end, myrtle, guard rails, school girls, hidden beach, silver point, rock walls, holidays, light bulbs, castle rock, jelly beans, buskin, heli pad, the wall, the point, Japs beach, the right, mill bay, the tombstone, boneyard, picnic tables, trespasses, pillar creek, whitesands, maydays and shiftys
Get some, Kooks!!!
Dude chill, I wasn’t calling you a kook, I don’t even no who you are,but you did take offense so are you? Not to mention its very rare that I ever surf the beach break,because that’s where people should be learning. Its places like guard rails or the bone yard that can get sketchy when someone drops in on you because they are novice. If you are a local you have to understand something,it will get worse. How was this summer with out of state surfers? What I was trying to do is warn you guys of the dangers of internet posting.I’m not saying you should break cameras or set cars on fire, but to be cognitive of what is allowed to be posted. I’m on your side and I’m not even close to being aggro If you knew me I’m actually quite the opposite. Oh and I want to let you know that I’ve picked up my fair share of trash too. Not on an organized day or anything,but as all good surfers would do I try and take care of mother earth. Also curious how many of the named spots above you mentioned do you think were named by me? Anyways if you see me in the line up no hard feelings.
Dear Bearded Kook,
Would you be willing to talk via e-mail? I have some questions for you. How could I contact you?
Thanks a million.
Mark
Yes thanks Caroline and Scott D and some of the other locals who have shared your stoke..
Hey Scott from Anchorage or wherever I was down on bird point a few weeks ago, waiting for a bore tide and in the parking lot some one had painted “our surf go home” was that you? Thankfully I met up with some good people, talked some story and became friends.
Nathan
No not me. I’m actually a nice guy, and they can have the bore tide. The wind surfing looks cool there though.
[…] financially. What we desire immediately is value and worth. Tags: | teaching english | ramblings | art | inn | short stories | Posted by admin on October 24th, 2011 :: Filed under Uncategorized You […]
[…] is typical), we took a driving tour around the island’s roads. Interestingly, Kodiak is known for its surfing. We checked out the surf scene at Pasagshak Beach. Luckily, there were some nice little peelers […]
Just learned about surfing on Kodiak, from Coast Guard Alaska, on Weather Channel. Never heard of it, but it sounds cool. Grew-up in Florida; into body surf. Have tried regular board-surfing — and skiing — but just can’t do it; may balance is all gone — never there really. But I’ve got this nephew who lives where I grew up. Just graduated high-school. Trying to interest him in USCG (was USN myself), but he’s just a total surf-bum — ‘kook’ in today’s language(?) — you know? Maybe once he hears that there is surf in Kodiak, he might see Coast Guard differently. Told me, “Hey, what are the chances of getting assigned to Hawaii? They’ll probably send me to Alaska!” Well, then … surf’s up, surfer! Thanks for the site and the info.
Hi, Caroline
I enjoyed everything that you shared about surfing on Kodiak Island! I will be relocating to Kodiak Island next week from Valdez, AK to work on a boat for the summer. I can’t wait to get in the waves! I’ve been in Alaska over a year now, and haven’t been surfing since I got here (I know…I’m gonna be rusty). I learned in the warm waters of Central Amreica, so I know Alaska will be a new challenge! I’ll only have a few days off of the boat, and I’m wondering where I should start to pick up the right gear (wet suit, board, etc). Anything you’ve got will help!
Thanks again,
Kari Anna