This is a short one. I didn’t shoot a lot of photos this morning before heading into the water, but a couple of these wave shots I know will be appreciated by the surfers out there. Will we ever tire of looking at empty waves, imagining . . . bottom turn, cut back, to the lip, down again, look back, look forward, point it, more speed need more speed, whooosh everything goes dark. aahhh, a new load of refreshing saltwater in the suit to spend the next 15 minutes warming some 60ºF to body temperature.
In full disclosure. These weaves look awesome, and they actually are. But experience shows that it is mostly very difficult to find yourself in the right spot at the right time, and often the waves here are going a bit faster than I can keep up with. No reason to not keep trying though. Sometimes it all comes together.