As predicted, we had a pretty strong surf swell in Homer, Alaska on the day after Christmas. It was actually a bit oversized for our normal breaks so we surfed a kind of funky beach break. Turned out to be some great drops, and a few nice walls to ride between heavy poundings. It was a big day for me, after shooting a few quick photos I jumped in and scored what I think might stand as my biggest drop so far. I’ve surfed bigger faces before, but this particular wave jacked up to about double overhead and sent me flying off the lip straight to the bottom, somehow landing on my board I just pointed it down the line with a big grin wondering how I managed to stay on my feet. The current was ripping down the beach so we would hike up a ways, take a few quick paddle strokes out and drift down the to the ‘lineup’. If you didn’t get on a wave within about 5 minutes it was best to just wash up on the beach and hike back up for another drift.
The few days after this one were even better, I’ll try and post more soon. Till then, here’s a few snap shots from the 26th of December.