What I remember most about the 23rd surf session was the sound of wind blown water hitting the 6mm neoprence hood. It was loud. I would probably remember more if I could have opened my eyes, but that was like looking into your shower head with 35 degree saltwater on the massage setting. Ok, maybe not that bad, but it was really windy. Walking back up the snow covered boulders to the car with a 7ft surfboard/sail was challenging.
Really, considering the conditions it was actually a pretty good surf session. The swell was growing fast and by the time darkness settled in around 4:30pm the sets were at least head high and Jake Bell and I managed some pretty good rides considering. And don’t forget the stunning scenery.
Christmas Eve was a big improvement. The swell was still strong, but the wind had settled down. With the waves forming so close to our beaches in Homer the interval was very tight and the swell disorganized but if you were in the right spot at the right time, it was a good drop and maybe a few quick turns.